The Farm

Rooted at Rock Harbor Road

  • Home
  • Events & Blog
  • Japanese Maples 2021
    • Japanese Maples
  • Trees 2021
  • Perennials 2021
  • Annuals & Edibles
  • A Peek Inside
  • Facebook Feed
  • Gift Certificates
  • What Matters
  • Media
  • Contact
  • SHOP ONLINE
    • Celebrate Mom
    • Annuals
    • Perennials
    • Japanese Maples
    • Trees
    • Shrubs
    • Soil & Compost
    • Succulents

Beware Winter Moth is here!

April 16, 2012 by TheFarm Leave a Comment

Strategies for Identifying and Controlling Winter Moth

Are you seeing moths attracted to your lights?

What is the Winter Moth? The Winter Moth was introduced to  the area from Europe through Nova Scotia. The hardest hit local areas include  coastal Massachusetts, but this pest has spread south into Connecticut and  north into Maine.The Winter Moth caterpillar is defoliating  deciduous plant material at an alarming rate. Trees at risk are maples, oaks,  cherries, basswood, ash, white elm, crabapple, apple, and blueberry, and they  can also drop from your trees into your plant beds to feed on your perennials.Male winter moths have wings and are rather drab-colored moths. The hind edge of their wings is fringed with small hairs and the bottom row of dark banding near the tip of the wing appears as a series of hash marks. This becomes important when trying to separate them from male fall cankerworm moths, which are active at the same time. The male Fall Cankerworm is similar to winter moth males but has a distinctive light colored patch near the distal end of the front wing on the leading edge.

Adult female winter moths are said to be wingless but they actually have greatly reduced wings and are smaller than the totally wingless adult female Fall Cankerworm moths.

Males and female moths of both species emerge around Thanksgiving time and may continue to emerge well through December whenever milder temperatures prevail during that time period. The moths of both species are attracted to lights. Females of both species will orient on a vertical silhouette, such as a tree trunk, and race up it while emitting a sex pheromone to attract males of her species. Clouds of male winter moths can be seen flying around tree trunks, resting on the bark and mating with females at this time.

Once mated, the female may continue scurrying up the tree and begins to lay eggs. Both males and females die soon after mating and egg deposition. Each female winter moth will lay up to 150 eggs. Fall Cankerworm females lay their eggs around the small stems of host plants. These egg clusters look like tiny individual barrels that are tightly packed together. There are no control options for the adult stages of these moths.

We’ve outlined   these identification and management practices:

Life Phase Season Control Options
CONTROL: Egg Late Fall / Winter A dormant oil spray can be    applied to suffocate the eggs.
CONTROL: Newly hatched caterpillars Late March / Early April Bacillus thuringiensis or BT is a very safe and effective    way to control all caterpillars.
CONTROL: Feeding caterpillars Late May / Early June BT can still be applied only if not applied earlier. Spinosad, Sevin and Neem are also    effective. Spinosad is derived from a   naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium that was collected from an   abandoned rum distillery on a Caribbean island   in 1982. This unique bacterium   was defined as a new species when it was discovered and it has never   been found in nature anywhere else in the world. Since being discovered,   Spinosad has become a leading pesticide used by agriculture world wide   in the production of organic produce. Today, thanks to Captain Jack’s   DEADBUG Brew®, Spinosad is available to the homeowner.
NO CONTROL: Winter Moth Pupae and Adult    Winter Months Pupate immediately after    feeding, moths emerge around Thanksgiving

Info brought to you by Northest Nursery Inc.

At this stage, the moths are no    threat to plant life and there are no control options available

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Growing Potatoes…7 Different Methods from Organic Magazine by Doug Hall

April 15, 2012 by TheFarm Leave a Comment

If you haven’t taken an interest in Organic Gardening Magazine….you are missing out! The writing, photos and info is priceless! We love them…Below is a experiment to see the best way to grow potatoes…Which will you do?

In April 2010, I planted organic ‘German Butterball’ seed potatoes in the Organic Gardening test plotsnear Emmaus, Pennsylvania, using the following seven methods. For the five raised planting techniques, I used a mixture of 2 parts topsoil to 1 part compost. Through the course of the growing season, the benefits and drawbacks of each became clear.

1. Hilled Rows

Dig straight, shallow trenches, 2 to 3 feet apart, in prepared soil. Plant seed potatoes 12 inches apart and cover with about 3 inches of soil. When the shoots reach 10 to 12 inches tall, use a hoe or shovel to scoop soil from between rows and mound it against the plants, burying the stems halfway. Repeat as needed through the growing season to keep the tubers covered.

Pros: No containers to buy or build; no soil to transport. This is a simple, inexpensive, and proven method that farmers have used for millennia. Practical for large-scale plantings.

Cons: Yield may be limited by the quality of the soil. In places where the soil is badly compacted or low in organic matter, one of the above ground techniques might work better.

2. Straw Mulch

Place seed potatoes on the surface of prepared soil, following the spacing specified for hilled rows, and cover them with 3 to 4 inches of loose, seed-free straw. Mound more straw around the stems as they grow, eventually creating a layer a foot or more in depth.

Pros: The thick mulch conserves soil moisture and smothers weeds. Harvest is effortless with no digging. This method is suggested as a way to thwart Colorado potato beetle.

Cons: Yield in the test plot was slightly less than in the hilled row. Field mice have been known to use the cover of straw to consume the crop.

3. Raised Bed

Loosen the soil in the bottom of a half-filled raised bed. Space seed potatoes about 12 inches apart in all directions and bury them 3 inches deep. As the potatoes grow, add more soil until the bed is filled. If possible, simplify harvest by removing the sides.

Pros: This method yielded the largest harvest in my trials, and the potatoes were uniformly large. Raised beds are a good choice where the garden soil is heavy and poorly drained.

Cons: The soil to fill the bed has to come from somewhere—and it takes a lot.

4. Growing Bags

Commercial growing bags are constructed of heavy, dense polypropylene. Put a few inches of a soil-compost mixture in the bottom of a bag, then plant 3 or 4 seed potato pieces and cover with 3 inches of soil. Continue adding soil as the plants grow until the bag is filled. To harvest, turn the bag on its side and dump out the contents.

Pros: Grow Bags can be placed on patios or driveways or used where garden soil is of inferior quality. The bags should last for several growing seasons. Their dark color captured solar heat to speed early growth. Harvest was simple, and the yield was impressive, considering the small space each bag occupies.

Cons: This is a pricey technique. The brand of bag I used costs $12.95.

5. Garbage Bag

Plant a large plastic garbage bag following the instruction for a Grow Bag, punching a few holes through the plastic for drainage. Roll the top edge of the bag to help it stay upright; otherwise the bag is prone to sag and spill soil. To harvest, rip the bag and dump out the contents.

Pros: Like the Grow Bags, a garbage bag can be employed where in-ground growing is not an option. Black bags capture solar heat to speed early growth.

Cons: Aesthetically, this is the least appealing choice. Yield was meager, perhaps because the thin plastic allowed the soil to heat up too much, limiting tuber formation.

6. Wood BOX

Following instructions found online at irisheyesgardenseeds.com/growers1, build a bottomless square box (I used lumber from discarded pallets). Plant the same as for a raised bed. The box is designed so additional slats can be screwed to the sides as the plants grow and soil is added. In theory, a bottom slat can be temporarily removed to facilitate the harvest of new potatoes. For the final harvest, tip the box and dump out its contents.

Pros: This is another raised strategy for growing potatoes where the garden soil is of poor quality. Yield was similar in quantity to that of a raised bed.

Cons: A lot of time and effort went into the construction of the box. I felt the results did not justify the effort.

7. Wire Cylinder

Using hardware cloth with ¼-inch mesh, fashion a cylinder about 18 inches in diameter and 24 inches tall. Put several inches of soil in the bottom, then plant 3 or 4 seed potatoes and cover them with 3 inches of soil. Continue to add soil as the potatoes grow. To harvest, lift the cylinder and pull the soil back to expose the tubers.

Pros: In a climate with incessant spring rains, the wire mesh would provide excellent drainage and prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. This is another raised technique to consider where garden soil is poor.

Cons: I harvested a limited number of undersized tubers from the cylinders—a dismal showing, probably because the soil-compost mixture I used dried out so quickly that the plants lacked adequate moisture.

 

Filed Under: Vegetables Tagged With: garden, gardening, local, organic, Organic gardening, seed potatoes, the farm, wb richardson growers

2012 Tree Inventory

March 11, 2012 by TheFarm Leave a Comment

ABIES ALBA GREEN SPIRAL
ABIES CILICICA
ABIES CONCOLOR DWARF BLUE
ABIES CONCOLOR WATEZII
ABIES CONCOLOR
ABIES FRASERI FANTASTICOOLI
ABIES FRASERI
ABIES KOREANA AUREA
ABIES KOREANA HORSTMANN’S SILBERLOCKE
ABIES KOREANA PROSTRATE BEAUTY
ABIES KOREANA SILVER SHOW
ABIES KOREANA STARKER’S DWARF
ABIES LASIOCARPA ARIZONICA GLAUCA NANA
ABIES MAGNIFICA NANA
ABIES PINSAPO AUREA
ABIES PINSAPO GLAUCA

ACER CIRCINATUM SUNNY SISTER
ACER GRISIUM PAPERBARK MAPLE
ACER PALMATUM AKA SHIGATSU SAWA
ACER PALMATUM AMBER GHOST
ACER PALMATUM AOYAGI GAWA
ACER PALMATUM ARIADNE
ACER PALMATUM BALDSMITH
ACER PALMATUM BLOODGOOD
ACER PALMATUM CRIMSON QUEEN
ACER PALMATUM EVER RED
ACER PALMATUM GARNET
ACER PALMATUM GRANDMA GHOST
ACER PALMATUM GREEN HORNET
ACER PALMATUM KANDY KITCHEN
ACER PALMATUM KINRAN
ACER PALMATUM KOTO NO ITO
ACER PALMATUM MURASAKI
ACER PALMATUM ORANGEOLA
ACER PALMATUM OREGON SUNSET
ACER PALMATUM OSAKAZUKI
ACER PALMATUM PURPLE GHOST
ACER PALMATUM RED DRAGON
ACER PALMATUM ROSEO MARGINATUM
ACER PALMATUM SANGO KAKU
ACER PALMATUM SEIRYU
ACER PALMATUM SHIRAZ
ACER PALMATUM SHISHIGASHIRA
ACER PALMATUM TAMUKEYAMA
ACER PALMATUM TIGER ROSE
ACER PALMATUM TSUMAGAKI
ACER PALMATUM VIRIDIS
ACER PSEUDOPLATANUS ESKIMO SUNSET
ACER RUBRUM OCTOBER GLORY

FRUIT ASSORTED

GINGKO BILOBA JADE BUTTERFILES

ILEX MESERVEAE BLUE PRINCESS

JUNIPERUS CHINENSIS DAUB’S FROSTED
JUNIPERUS COMMUNIS COMPRESSA
JUNIPERUS PROCUMBENS NANA

KORNUS CHINENSIS KOUSA
KORNUS FLORIDA
KORNUS KOUSA X FLORIDA

LARIX DECIDUA PENDULA
LARIX LARICINA BLUE SPARKLER

LIQUIDAMBER MORAINE

MAGNOLIA BUTTERFLY

MALUS ESPALIERED
MALUS CRABAPPLE
MALUS DOMESTICA GRANNY SMITH

METASEQUIOA GLYPTOSTROBOIDES GOLD RUSH
METASEQUIOA GLYPTOSTROBOIDES MISS GRACE

MICROBIATA DECUSSATA

MORUS ALBA CHAPEREL

OXYDENDRON SOURWOOD
PICEA ABIES CRUSITA

PICEA ABIES CUPRESSINA
PICEA ABIES HILLSIDE UPRIGHT
PICEA GLAUCA CONICA
PICEA GLAUCA DAISY WHITE
PICEA GLAUCA PENDULA
PICEA LIKIENGENSIS PURPUREA
PICEA OMORIKA NANA
PICEA OMORIKA PENDULA BRUNS
PICEA OMORIKA
PICEA ORIENTALIS BERGMANN’S GEM
PICEA ORIENTALIS SKYLANDS
PICEA PUNGEANS BIZON BLUE
PICEA PUNGEANS COLORADO BLUE
PICEA PUNGEANS COSTERI PENDULA
PICEA PUNGEANS GLAUCA FASTIGIATA
PICEA PUNGEANS GLAUCA PROSRATA
PICEA PUNGEANS GLOBOSA
ACER SHIRASAWANUM AUREUM
ACER SHIRASAWANUM JOHIN

BETULA ROYAL FROST

BUXUS SEMPERVIRENS SUFFRUTICOSA

CEDRUS ATLANTICA GLAUCA PENDULA
CEDRUS DEADORA ALBO SPICA
CEDRUS DEADORA DIVINELY BLUE
CEDRUS DEADORA GOLDEN
CEDRUS DEADORA GOLDEN CASCADE
CEDRUS DEADORA SILVER MIST
CEDRUS DEADORA SNOW SPRITE
CEDRUS DEADORA WHITE IMP
CEDRUS LIBANI BEACON HILL
CEDRUS LIBANI BLUE SNAKE
CEDRUS LIBANI GREEN KNIGHT
CEDRUS LIBANI GLAUCA PENDULA

CERCIDIPHYLLUM JAPONICA MAGNIFICUM PENDULA

CERCIS CANADENSIS COVEY
CERCIS CANADENSIS EASTERN REDBUD
CERCIS CANADENSIS DON EGOLF
CERCIS CANADENSIS FOREST PANSY
CERCIS CANADENSIS RISING SUN

CHAMAECYPARIS NOOTKATENSIS GLAUCA PENDULA
CHAMAECYPARIS NOOTKATENSIS GREEN ARROW
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA COMPACTA
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA COSTERI
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA CRIPSI
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA GOLDEN FERNSPRAY
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA GRACIOSA
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA MARIESII
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA NAN GRACILLIS
CHAMAECYPARIS OBTUSA SPLIT ROCK
CHAMECYPARIS PISIFERA BOULIVARD POMPOM

CHIONATHUS RETUSUS FRINGE TREE

CRYPTOMERIA BLACK DRAGON
CRYPTOMERIA TAISHO TAMASUGI

CUPRESSUS GLABRA RAYWOODS WEEPING

FAGUS SYLVATICA PURPUREA PENDULA
FAGUS SYLVATICA RIVERSII
FAGUS SYLVATICA ROSEO MARGINATA
FAGUS SYLVATICA WEEPING GREEN
PICEA PUNGEANS HOOPSII
PICEA PUNGEANS R.H. MONTGOMERY
PIERIS JAPONICA MOUNTAIN FIRE

PINUS ARISTATA
PINUS BUNGEANA LACEBARK PINE
PINUS CEMBRA GLAUCA
PINUS CONTORTA SPAAN’S DWARF
PINUS DENSIFLORA GOLDEN GHOST
PINUS FLEXIS CESARINI BLUE
PINUS FLEXIS VANDERWOLFS PYRAMID
PINUS KWANGTUNGENSIS
PINUS LEUCODERMIS SATELITE
PINUS MUGO ALPENGLOW
PINUS MUGO FASTIGIATA
PINUS MUGO MITCH’S MINI
PINUS MUGO WINTER GOLD
PINUS PARVIFLORA FUKUZUMI
PINUS PARVIFLORA GLAUCA
PINUS PARVIFLORA IBO CAN
PINUS PARVIFLORA KOKO NO E
PINUS PARVIFLORA OGON
PINUS PARVIFLORA OGON JANOME
PINUS PARVIFLORA TEMPLEHOF
PINUS SLYVESTRUS GOLD COIN
PINUS STROBUS PENDULA
PINUS STROBUS
PINUS SYLVESTRUS BONNA
PINUS THUNBERGII KOTO BUKI
PINUS THUNBERGII OGON
PINUS THUNBERGII THUNDERHEAD

PRUNUS KWANZAN
PRUNUS OTTO LUYKEN
PRUNUS SCHIPKAENSIS
PRUNUS CERASIFERA KRAUTER’S VESUVIUS

PYRUS ARISTOCRAT
PYRUS BOSC

SALIX HAKURU NISHIKI

SCIADOPITYS VERTICILLATA UMBRELLA PINE

SYRINGA IVORY SILK

TAXODIUM PEVE MINURET

THUJA OCCIDENTALIS SMARAGD
THUJA ORIENTALIS AUREA NANA

WISTERIA

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Spring is only 12 days away

March 9, 2012 by TheFarm Leave a Comment

Spring is only 12 days away and yet here at The Farm…it is arriving every day! In the next three weeks 28,000 Perennials will be planted…hundreds of annual planters and hanging baskets with be created, and 2012 will be another year we are so fortunate to be in business! So as we travel along this path…I invite you to watch, learn, explore and see what we love to do! The Richardson Family welcomes you with open arms, dirty hands and open hearts into the world we create at 40 Rock Harbor Road.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: annuals, cape cod, gardencenter, home and garden, locally grown, nursery, orleans, Perennials, the farm, the richardson family, wb richardson

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Archives

  • January 2021
  • December 2020
  • November 2020
  • July 2020
  • May 2020
  • April 2020
  • March 2020
  • November 2018
  • November 2017
  • March 2017
  • November 2016
  • June 2016
  • May 2016
  • April 2015
  • March 2014
  • November 2013
  • April 2013
  • March 2013
  • January 2013
  • November 2012
  • April 2012
  • March 2012

Categories

  • HOURS
  • Uncategorized
  • Vegetables

Locally grown on our 10-acre farm, thousands of perennials and annuals and a large selection of unique trees and shrubs. Roses, Ornamental Grass, Lilies, Japanese Maple, Hydrangea, and an extension selection of Proven Winners™. Fantastic quality and color for your Cape Cod garden.

The Richardson Family invites you to come explore the nursery and see what we love to do. Offering our customers Wholesale and Retail products since 1975.

The Farm | 40 Rock Harbor Road Orleans, MA 02653
508-240-1222 or 508-737-4605

Follow Us!

Follow Us on FacebookFollow Us on Pinterest

Copyright

© 2010–2014 The Farm. All Rights Reserved. Website by Paraclete Web Design.